Artist: Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel
museum: Kunstgewerbemuseum (Berlin, Germany)
Teknik: Turquoise
In 1954 Coco Chanel, then 71 years old, re-opened her fashion house, which had been closed since 1939. Although Europeans estimated the first collection as “old-fashioned”, the American fashion press reacted positively. The suits introduced by Chanel became a particular success. This informal elegant style, which stood in stark contrast to the rigid corset-stiffened creations of other French fashion designers, helped Coco Chanel make her comeback a success. This knee-hugging suit at the Kunstgewerbemuseum has all the hallmarks of a typical Chanel suit: a slightly fitted jacket with fourpatch pockets and collar and lapels that form a deep V-neck. This offers a clear view of the fresh coloured chequered blouse that is colour-matched to the fabric of the suit. The jacket is double-breasted. Its long narrow sleeves are set high and end in piping, set with two buttons à la marinière and adorned with practical button-in, white pique cuffs. The hemlines of both jacket and blouse are weighed down with a gold coloured curb chain that guarantees a perfect fit. The zipper on the slightly flared four-panel skirt is integrated into the left rear side seam.
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